What do you mean blocked?
The download itself or the file when you try to run it?
Did you try right-click on the file, go to Properties and then click on Unblock.
Does the current BIOS on the motherboard support your CPU?
I'm guessing that you have Windows 10 S or Window RT, as these are locked down version of Windows that do not allow you to install programs by running a .exe
See if you can upgrade to a full Windows version.
Are you on a laptop, phone, tablet?
It'd be really helpful if you told as what hardware and software your rocking as it enables us to be a lot more specific.
Instead of opening from one drive, can you download and save your files to your device and then open them?
Is the PSU switch in the correct position?
Is the EVO firmware up to date?
Take out the CMOS battery and reset the settings.
It's all well and good for us to recommend you one, but it's hard as we don't know what tolerances you have for space... will a given heat-sync clear your ram, fit in your case, etc. So people may recommend a closed water cooler as the pump sits on your CPU unobtrusively. Frankly I think it's a toss up between either the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler or the Corsair H100i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
You may pay a little more for the water cooler at $110, but I think I'd go that way if I were you.
yes, the pre-applied paste is crap.
I use my own paste, I also never use the stock cooler.
The stock cooler may be fine if your running in a air-conditioned environment, have not overclocked and aren't doing anything too taxing on the system... that being said if your gaming you need an aftermarket cooler.
As soon as you turn the PC on start tapping the key to enter the BIOS, depending on your system this could either be Delete, F10 or F1.
Are you plugging the right drive into the right slot?
When I looked up your motherboard I only saw support for M.2 SSD and no mention of NVME anywhere.
To your PSU... one of them anyway. It's a pass-through by the sounds of it.
thanks, i am just considering a new system and am wondering if I should wait.
I have a basic system already I use for daily stuff, but am in the market for a system for more intensive hobbies... not just games.
Your GPU is not the only thing that affects your FPS in a game, depending on the game of course... your CPU is also required to be good for some games.
What are your temperatures?
If your game requires more CPU than GPU and is thermal throttling, your general performance and FPS are going to suck.
Check your cables, as not all cables are created equally.
I've used cables that are "supposedly" compliant to a standard and weren't cause they were in fact a cheap knock off.
I think those B450 boards have a BIOS flash option that lets you flash the BIOS without a CPU and/or RAM installed... essentially it seems the x470 and x570 boards may not have said feature and you would have to get another supported CPU to flash the BIOS.
Plus the only real benefit it seems for the x570 is PCIE 4.0 with a 5700XT GPU, for future proofing at this point as there doesn't really seem to be many PCIE 4.0 GPU available.
I like ASUS, but I cant find a X570 in the form factor I need.
Are there any good mATX X570?
Also, what RAM speed is best? (With the now older Ryzen it seems higher speed RAM 3000 or 3200 was the go, what about these new Ryzen do you use the 4400 with them?)
Yes and no, your RAM will run together but at the slowest speed. In other words all at 2666MHz together.
Try a linux live CD/USB to re-partition and format the HDD. Then try to install Windows again...
Is your system shutting off altogether or is the game crashing to desktop?
I've had systems brown out upon putting them under sufficient load e.g. gaming, that would run fine to surf the web, type a letter, etc. If that sounds like what you have, then its your PSU... you either need a new one or a bigger one.
I generally aim for double the wattage I will need, as I know as a PSU ages it degrades producing less power. If you put in a PSU that only just does the job your gonna have problems sooner rather than later.
Have you tried just one stick of ram?
I was considering some Nanoxia Deep Silence 120mm PWM Ultra-Quiet PC Fan, 650-1500 RPM for an old PC, cause the bearings on it's fans are worn and becoming quite loud, they seem to be quieter with a greater throughput than the one's your considering... alas I don't need to buy them anymore as my old system died.
This sounds very similar to the Silverstone HDDBoost, essentially what it does is copy your most used files at boot to the SSD, hence the long boot time. Your system gets sped up by using these cached files and only access your HDD when something needs to be written or isn't in the SSD. It was an attractive idea when SSD's first came about cause it meant having fewer write cycles for the SSD using it mostly as a read only device, except at boot time, increasing the longevity of the SSD.
These days storeMI, Silverstone HDDBoost, etc are not necessary as you can buy a hybrid drive or SSD has sufficient longevity's judging by their warranties.
If I was you I'd probably just put the OS and programs on the SSD and save files to the HDD. To hell with storeMI...
Try cleaning your RAM contacts with a soft white pencil eraser.
Sorry, it was early morning and I'd been up all night working on getting a failing laptop working and decided to make a facetious remark.
Disconnect your PSU and use a paper-clip to jump the PSU to see if its not dead, if your PSU fan spins we'll assume it's okay and you can use it.
Try re-seating your RAM, I've had systems seem dead cause good contact isn't being made because the RAM isn't inserted properly. I've had the odd system where after I clipped the RAM in I've had to pull on the RAM (still clipped in) to get the RAM to sit correctly in the slot to work.
Try building the system out of your case on the anti-static bag your motherboard came in, sometimes grounding issues can prevent a system from booting. My old system has this issue due to a heavy heat sink causing the motherboard to flex slightly and touch down on the case, so I use some stick-on rubber risers to make sure my motherboard doesn't touch down causing shorts.
Is it plugged in?
yes it does more often than not... some brands are just bad and some are usually very good
Neither, get a Seasonic...
have you tried one stick of ram?
hehehe, I think he transposed one of the numbers there...
If you have your CD key you can go to the Microsoft website and download the ISO for making a boot-disk.
I pretty much believe at the moment a decent PC on a budget is any with a 6 core CPU, a SSD, 16GB and at least a 1660 ti GPU.
I'd be holding off til next month I believe it is when the new AMD CPU line comes out to see if it pushes any prices down of the other CPU and see if you can get a Ryzen 1600/X or 2600/X cheaper...
Personally, I'm a bit peeved with Windows and have moved wholly to Ubuntu on a new little system I bought for around $400 that I use for uni, as I'm a student, for watching videos, playing some low end games, etc...
+1 this for the most part, I am not a fan of Asrock or LG though...
Your partlist is private for me, you have to go into the parts list and edit details and untick the private box.
No, there are various components that can wake your computer.
Go into the device manager and select each device and make sure the option is un-ticked that permits it to wake up your PC. I had a similar issue awhile back due to a dodgy mouse and had to set it so only my keyboard could be used to wake my PC. I disabled it for my mouse and the Wake On LAN... most likely you system is getting a signal from somewhere erroneously that is waking the PC.
Try "powercfg -devicequery wake_armed" with the quotes in the command prompt window to see which devices you have that can wake your PC.
How do you have your case fans setup and cable management done, ideally you aiming for good airflow through the case with a bare minimum of obstructions.
If you don't have good airflow, no matter how good your CPU heat sink is, your system will bake.
Try using some washers
Get a Seasonic PSU.
I have a low opinion of EVGA PSU personally, I like their GPU though.
Depends on the age of the PSU, if it's over 5 years I'd use a new PSU for a new system because PSU degrade over time. Especially as Seasonic have discontinued that PSU. One would tend to ask why it was discontinued, if a PSU is popular and has nothing fundamentally wrong with it I'd imagine it'd stay in production.
I have a bunch of Corsair PSU and found out about an issue I have with them that causes a quiet buzzing sound. It's the auto-sensor for the power depending on what country your in, i.e. 240v or 110v. Previously, PSU had a mechanical switch, some still do, but Corsair' circuit is known to buzz, mine do.
I assume your issue is either that or you have bee's in your PC.
A dying HDD can cause crap performance, perhaps look at a SSD.
Also when was this laptop last serviced and cleaned for dust, if the fan isn't working properly or the system is clogged with dust it'll be thermally throttling itself and that will result in bad performance too.
What are your temperatures like?
try cleaning your ram contacts with a soft white pencil eraser so they are shiny and not dull, you'd be surprised how a little bit of grime/rust/corrosion can prevent good contact from being made and introduce errors into the system.
Also whats the health of your SSD, a dying drive can cause errors too.
Clean the ram contacts with a soft white pencil eraser so they are shiny and not dull.... if the errors persist look into the warranty for your ram, if you have a lifetime warranty you may not have to buy new ram.
Memory management errors can also occur from a bad HDD because Windows part of your HDD as virtual memory for a pagefile.
Go into the BIOS and tell us what your voltages are...
You may have to turn off auto and use a specified voltage.
Well the drivers I tend to use come on a disc with the GPU card, or I download the drivers from the GPU manufacturer website that have been tested for use with your card.
The latest set of NVIDIA drivers from NVIDIA may or may not work well for you, I've literally had a GPU card in the past that would artifact out and BSOD the system if I used the latest set of NVIDIA drivers. Instead, I had to use the drivers that came with the GPU itself...
(Please Note: I did not say the latest version of NVIDIA drivers from the NVIDIA website.)
If you changed settings in your BIOS, revert them back and if you don't know what they were before just reset the BIOS by either taking the battery out and powering the system off or jumping the CMOS pins.
Alternatively, you may consider updating your BIOS but I wouldn't unless it's a last resort... please note both your motherboard and GPU card have their own BIOS separate from each other.
Your definitely thermal throttling at those temps.
I never use the stock cooler for any of my PC's, I very much recommend you get a aftermarket cooler that far exceeds your needs.
On a side note, how do you have your case fans setup?
If you don't have good airflow through your case things are gonna get hot no matter how good your heatsync, paste and fans are...!
Make sure you have your CD-Key for the OS backed up before you blank the drive.
I use a vbs script to look up Windows OS keys before I blank my systems and belarc advisor to list some of my other software keys.
Perhaps an adapter, but it seems these are hit and miss and you may be better off looking for a new monitor.
It'd be helpful if you stated what your GPU was.
In fact a general list of your parts is what we need...