Thanks! I'm pretty sure that aluminum piece is riveted in place. There's no way to get the fan closer to the front. Also, the air intakes are on the side panels in front of the aluminum piece. If the fan did fit further forward it would block the vents.
I can't say to be honest since I never hear it. My NAS is in an unfinished part of the basement in the same room as the furnace, water heater, water softener, etc.
Happy to help! It's been holding up great. Zero issues to date except for forgetting my IPMI password... everything I ever need to do is accessible through the FreeNAS console. I'll remember it someday or find the procedure to reset it.
This build is 9 months old...
First, the H110i was cheaper than the H115i. They're both 240mm AIO coolers. Why pay more for essentially the same thing? There is no performance improvement. The H110i and H115i are made by two different manufacturers, hence the two different model numbers. I don't understand why Corsair even sells two items that are so similar.
Second, the logo direction did matter to me. If the H110i was $5 more than the H115i I would have gladly paid it. It's the attention to detail that sets an average build apart from a great one.
I asked for permission, so technically it isn't stealing. Haha.
This one is a little bit larger than an Xbox One, but still tiny. I had it setup next to my Phanteks Enthoo Evolv and had to laugh at the size difference.
It's my one and only Snap On tool. I've never been a fan of ratcheting screwdrivers (had a Craftsman, Wera, Milwaukee, and some others). After hearing so many good things about this one I decided to give it a shot. I'm glad I did. It's fantastic!
The boost clock is the same (3.9Ghz), but the base clock is slightly different (3.3Ghz vs. 3.5). I'm watching temps to see it it's possible to overclock it slightly. It's already ridiculously fast as is.
Unfortunately the only place to add fans is the GPU side which is sealed off from the motherboard area.
Similar to the Noctua Industrial. They are nearly inaudible at lower speeds and obnoxious at higher speeds. At idle/web browsing, the front two fans are at a very low speed and the rear fan is disabled. I had issues with negative pressure pulling dust into the case with two intakes and three exhausts. I don't count the power supply intake because that fan never needs to run.
By disabling the rear fan and forcing the power supply to run at 20% I have positive pressure and dust is not an issue. As soon as I start gaming or the temps rise the rear fan kicks in and the other fans ramp up appropriately.
I was not recommending, suggesting, advising, encouraging, etc. that the site be used. I simply stated what I used and where it was purchased to clarify any questions that would surely come about due to the price listed for the OS.
While I agree that a number of the keys may violate ToS, or may have been purchased with stolen credit cards and resold, a number of the keys are legitimate. It is ridiculous that the keys can not be tracked by Microsoft to void the illegitimate ones.
I held the fans from the bottom and pressed them up to the bottom of the beams then slid the radiator bracket in place (no radiator attached). The bracket once in place kept the fans from falling down. I could then slide the fans around, hold the radiator up from the bottom, and line everything up/screw it in place.
I believe the original poster cut the beams out so he could insert the fans from the top after the bracket was in place. With some creative assembly cutting the beams out is totally unnecessary. The lips on the beams that stick down need to be cut off for this to work, but it is better than losing the entire beam.
As far as fan noise goes, I have them set to 20% and really have to listen to hear them. At 50% they are very audible, but tolerable. 75% and 100% is unbearable. I use the Asus Fan Xpert 3 app to control the speed. If temperatures increase it increases the fan speed accordingly. The only time the fans ramp up at all is when gaming they may hit 50%. When this happens I'm wearing headphones anyways, so I can't hear it.
The non-industrial Noctual fans I have used in a couple of other computers. They're pretty much the same thing, but spin at lower RPMs. Even at 100% I would say they're about the same as the industrials at 50%.
It's a pretty sweet microwave. I can stick a Hot Pocket in there. Frozen to crispy in just under 6 minutes.
I swear the box it came in (with packaging materials, cables, etc.) was the size of my HX1000i, possibly even smaller.
I've added the bracket to the power supply section in the description as well for clarification.
I apologize, I didn't take any pictures of the rear of the case which would have more clearly shown the adapter.
While I did look at UnRAID and some others, FreeNAS can do everything that I plan on doing with it. It's free, and the support/number of users is astonishing. I didn't need to ask anyone for help during setup, but was able to search and find solutions for the things I was struggling with.
To say that I have 6TB of critical data is a bit of an overstatement, but there's 6TB of data that I don't want to lose. :)
~2TB of the data includes all of my school work throughout college, photos, music collection that I no longer have CDs for, and projects for work (large architectural CAD files). I'd call this critical.
The rest is movies and TV shows that would be annoying to lose, but not the end of the world. I cleaned out a bunch of movies and TV series that I will never watch again to fit onto the 6TB drive.
Thanks! Fixed the link. :)
The badge is a custom part. I measured the original Phanteks badge and drew it in CAD. A friend of a friend took the file and did the cutting/engraving for me on a piece of 1/8" aluminum. The paint I did myself by thinning the paint and using an eye dropper to drip a drop at a time into the engraving. Before it dried I wiped the excess off the top and finished everything with a clear spray to protect it.
I do have a couple of extra blanks without the engraving. When I was searching for a place to make the badge for me I found a number of places locally that would do the engraving, but couldn't cut the badge. I had the extra blanks made in case I ever wanted to change it up. If you're interested in a blank, send me a message!
Happy to help!
The radiator mounting situation was my biggest gripe with this case. I intentionally purchased the case first so I could order an air cooler instead of the radiator in case I didn't think the mod would work.
It's not on his website, but he does have it (or did at the time he made mine). When I requested samples of a few of the colors he sent the sky blue and a some others in addition to the ones I requested.
Thanks for the kind words regarding the build!
Yeah... I searched for lengths with no luck. Ultimately I assembled the system with the stock Corsair cables, measured the extra slack, and then subtracted that from the overall length of the Corsair cables.
When the Ensourced cables arrived I simply swapped them out!
24-pin motherboard: 60cm 8-pin motherboard: 70cm GPU: 40cm (these were a little long, but the excess is hidden by the psu shroud) Sata: 60cm (to reach from power supply to the SSD in the front)
Be aware that since the cables are custom there is a bit of a lead time. I was told approximately two weeks and that is how long it took. This time may fluctuate depending on his workload. The number of options/colors/quality definitely made the wait worth it.
The quality of the cables is excellent. I was actually blown away when I received them. I love that they are actual paracord instead of the plasticky type of sleeving.
I like the tempered glass edition of the case, but I won't switch to it. Simply swinging the door open on its hinge is much more convenient than four screws to remove the side panel. I also don't care for the tempered glass behind the motherboard tray. Even though this is against a wall on my desk, I don't like the idea of all of my cable management being on display. It's not the prettiest thing to look at.
You can see in this build that when the H115i radiator is mounted in the same orientation (at the top with tubes on the left) that the Corsair logo is on the right side instead of left and the logo is upside down: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/TWHNnQ
I have no idea why Corsair did this or why they even have two different 280mm radiators (made by different companies).
Happy to see another person utilizing the wasted space above the radiator bracket! It looks so much nicer without the radiator/fans hanging down so far.
I made a lot of concessions (wireless, USB, mute button with indicator) and bought the Audio Technica ATH-AD700X along with a ModMic.
I've gotten used to to the cord and the weird wing system on the headphones (using a rubber band around the wings helped with the fit on my head).
There is a bit of static/noise from the mic. I think it's caused by the motherboard. It's tolerable though.
There is probably a better solution out there, but this was a huge improvement over the Logitech G930.
No modifications required to mount a 360 at the front, but you lose the two hard drive trays near the front.
If you're comfortable using a Dremel it's pretty easy, just time consuming. If you don't have a lot of experience with DIY projects it may be more of a challenge.
To be honest, it's not great. 2-140mm intake on the front, 1-140mm intake in the power supply (only runs over 50% load), 1-140mm exhaust on the rear, 2-140mm exhaust on top of the radiator (because there is no air filter on top). With this setup air pressure inside the case was negative. Air was being sucked in through the rear vents (no filters, so dust too) due to the imbalance. All fans were running at low speed to keep the noise down (it's very quiet).
In order to get positive air pressure I had to do the following:
increase speed on the front intakes slightly at idle temperatures for more intake
set the psu fan to run at a low speed 100% of the time for more intake
disable rear exhaust fan until temperatures creep up (only while gaming) to reduce exhaust
While gaming the GPU does hit 80 degrees occasionally, but CPU temp stays low due to the AIO cooler. It isn't ideal, but it's good enough for me.
Sorry, I was half asleep when I typed the above reply. By CPU cable I meant 24-pin motherboard cable and by 4-pin I actually meant 8-pin motherboard cable. Not sure what I was thinking...
Thanks! I used custom sleeved cables from Ensourced rather than extensions because the power supply was fully modular. No extensions helped cut down on cable management. For the cables that are not visible I just used the original cables that came with the power supply.
24-pin motherboard: 60cm
8-pin motherboard: 70cm
GPU: 40cm (these were a little long, but the excess is hidden by the psu shroud)
Sata: 60cm (to reach from power supply to the SSD in the front)
I don't think you would be able to fit 3-120mm fans up there due to the power switch encroaching on the space required for the fan closest to the front on a 360mm radiator.
GPU 40cm (these were a little long, but the excess is hidden by the psu shroud)
Sata: 60cm (to reach from power supply to the SSD in the front)
I can't handle The Truth. :(
Cable management from the front looks like it's on point. Don't remove the other side panel and no one will ever know.
Where did you hide the third SSD? I assuming you have two behind the motherboard and the two 3.5" drives are mounted near the front.
PS. I hope someone gets the movie reference.
Thanks! Part of me wishes I would have gone with silver again, but the anthracite is growing on me. It goes better with the black interior.
Trying to plug that USB 3 cable in was one of the more frustrating parts of the build. Thank you again for posting your build which made that a little bit easier.
It's the first generation 32GB cellular. I started the project right after the iPad mini was released. I don't actually use the cellular part, but the wifi only model didn't have the GPS chip. With the GPS chip I can use a map app that stores the data on the iPad for navigation instead of relying on Apple or Google Maps (uses data). The hotspot from my phone allows me to use the iPad normally otherwise.
Overall I'm happy with it. Bluetooth audio quality isn't great, but it works. having to manually connect the hotspot and start playing a song each time the car starts is a little annoying. If it was in the car I drove everyday I may consider other options.
I had a Pioneer touch screen unit with an iPod stashed in the glovebox before. The navigation sucked and I needed a new unit to work with my new phone. All the new units at the time (and even current ones) required a cable to the phone for full functionality. This is why I decided to do the iPad. The price between a new touch screen navigation unit and the iPad setup were pretty similar (not including the cost of the actual iPad). As an added perk, I now have an iPad I can use daily outside of the car (although between a Macbook and iPhone the iPad rarely gets used). When wireless CarPlay becomes a thing it will be hard to make a case for the iPad.
I also considered building a car PC. The iPad was so much easier and isn't limited to only being able to use it in the car.
Build thread for the car is here: VWVortex Everything done to the car is in the first post. Most of the pictures are broken. I foolishly reorganized my Photobucket account without realizing the implications. Sorry. :( If you would like to see the rest of the pictures send me a message and I'll share the password for the album.
I built it for me and only me, not with hopes of getting it featured.
The other builds on this site were invaluable for visualizing the orientation of the AIO cooler, location of the 8-pin plugs on the video card relative to grommet placement in the case, different color schemes for sleeved cables, etc.
The build was posted here to help others out looking to build something similar. It's my way of giving back to the community that helped me build mine.
If you have custom cables made it would be pretty easy get it right. I used the original Corsair cables to get the system running then measured how much I would need to add or take off from that cable to route it the way I would like. Ensourced had options every 10cm which got me pretty close. The price for the custom cables wasn't all that bad considering the amount of tedious labor that goes into it. I planned on making my own, but after figuring out the supplies needed and the time involved it was so much easier to have them made by someone that's really good at it.
Thanks! The case did most of the work for me. I used the original PSU cables to ballpark the length needed for the sleeved cables (within 10cm). This combined with a fully modular power supply cut down on a lot of the extra cable clutter.
What benchmarks would you like to see? If the programs are free I don't mind doing it.
Doug built it. ;) I pulled the radio cage out and shipped it to him. It's one of the very few things in the car that I didn't feel comfortable doing myself. It turned out great!
The making of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1HVR30kDO4#t=7m18s and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z1HVR30kDO4#t=9m41s
Box is the name I gave my first desktop as a teenager to make it easier to find on the network. I really don't know where it came from, but it stuck.
I am aware the 1000w power supply is overkill. I was planning on purchasing the 850w version, but this was $40 cheaper with a promo code and a mail-in rebate. A power supply is most efficient around 50% load. Assuming a 400-450 watt system the 850w would have been perfect.
The fan only runs above 50% capacity. Even at full load (450w) the fan never kicks in.
The tempered glass side panels look amazing! Unless the backside is against a wall your cable management will need to be on point.
Somewhat reasonable and practical meant keeping it to a single video card, no more than 32GB of RAM, etc...
Benchmark numbers don't really concern me, but what benchmarks would you like to see? If they're free apps I don't mind running a few.
Installing Windows off a thumb drive was interesting and I needed to create imaged of my architectural software on a second computer. Rarely do I need an optical drive, but it's really nice to have one. A $20-30 external drive may be smart.
Lian Li was the first place I looked for a new case. While their cases are built really well, I didn't care for any of their current options.
I definitely have a bit of an OCD problem... haha.
Thank you for the kind words.
Thanks! I will look into this.